Cape Town

A romantic get-away - that's what it was.

Cape Town was wonderful, but more than that, it was a whopping five days and four nights, just David and I. Being without the children made me giddy. Have they been that big of a burden? The travel was absurdly easy. No checked luggage. No keeping the kids quiet and safely nearby, off the floors, and out of strangers' way.

Just before landing, we flew over high mountains. I just wasn't expecting it, and then there was the city and the ocean.

A little about Cape Town - it's parked tightly between the Atlantic Ocean and steep Table Mountain at the north end of a hilly peninsula that runs north-south. At the south end is the Cape of Good Hope National Park (penguins, baboons), and along the coastal roads on the east and west sides, there are fishing villages and small touristy towns. Everything was closer together than we expected. It's extremely picturesque - waves crashing against dark, craggy cliffs, narrow beaches, fishing piers. In Kalk Bay, the houses cling to the mountainside and overlook the Indian Ocean - their beach access are cobblestone stair alleys.

view from Cape of Good Hope north on Atlantic side 

We stayed in Muizenberg, 5 minutes north of Kalk, where locals get their beach time, mainly to surf. Surfers ranged from grandparents to elementary school kids, all wearing black wet suits. I've never seen so many surfers.


Our first day, we drove to the Cape, hiked along the cliffs in the sun and strong wind, then ate at a restaurant in Kalk that sits on the rocks so close to the water's edge that spray from the waves crashes on the windows. There's a train that runs right on the beach all the way to the city and east to the wine country. It's so civilized!

see train tracks on beach...view driving south from Kalk Bay

Next day we went to the Stellenbosch wine country and joined a group for the Bike-n-Wine tour, then in the afternoon drove to Franschhoek, another winery village in the mountains. We had our best dinner of the trip at the intimate Terroir restaurant in Kleine Zalze estate that evening.

We drove into the city the next day and booked a hotel there for the night, as it was New Year's Eve and we didn't want to bother with driving back. The Waterfront area where we spent the day had plenty of tourists, but there was never congestion in an unpleasant way. Restaurants were setting up for parties. Sidewalk performers entertained the crowds. There was so much for kids to do there, as well: a big (safe looking) ferris wheel, an aquarium, movie theaters, kiddie amusement parks, boat tours...it was a surprisingly family friendly downtown scene.

Waterfront musicians

I didn't know what to expect with the old colonial hotel, Mt. Nelson, but we started the night off there, having drinks and a light dinner on the veranda. I had the impression that a certain set made a ritual of spending their NYE at the Mt. Nelson - men wearing tuxes shook hands like they hadn't seen each other for a long time. Women wore elegant dresses, and there were teenagers and some children all dressed up.

Being without kids, we thought we'd try more of the nightlife scene on Long Street, so we walked down from the Mt. Nelson. Once we got down to Long, the crowds flowed into the street. It was a younger scene with waiting lines at the clubs. We hung out in a rooftop bar with good music until the Kaapse Klopse mardi gras type parade started.

A word about security - we were cautious, but I felt safe. There were police in florescent bibs every block, but they were just there - not bossing or moving anyone.

We ended up at a party under a big circus tent at the Artscape Theater - the theme appeared to be nautical magic. It was exactly the scene I would have enjoyed 15 years ago...though the DJ was a bit too original. Apparently, women redefining their hairline by shaving up from the forehead (a la Queen Elizabeth) is in style, in addition to the mo-hawk. We old fogies, celebrating David's 40th this time, made it to midnight (then promptly got a cab back to the hotel).

Next morning we watched para-gliders jumping off Signal Hill, drifting like giant windblown seedpods on the updraft from the sea. We met friends for another great meal and wine on the Waterfront and did some shopping before heading back to Kalk and Muizenberg.

Cape Town would be a great place to meet family and friends again. As much as we enjoyed our romantic get-away, it would be fun to go back with the kids.

(Alas, out little snappy camera was stolen from the suitcase, likely in notorious Jo'burg, so no photos except what we took with our phones.)